Truly, there is nothing more frustrating than technical difficulties while trying to write about the wonders of the day. I simply had to give up last night or I might not have a device to record this on today. I’ll try again and hopefully all will go smoothly.

An early alarm of 7:00 a.m. called to us because today we had planned to see the Botanical Gardens in Hilo on the other side of the island. We wanted to be on the road early so as to see all the sights and be back before sundown.

Breakfast on the deck was lovely as we’d beaten the sun to the spot. But we didn’t linger as we wanted to enjoy the full day. Just as I was packing some water and snacks, I hear a whimpering “Oh no!” from my driver. He had just discovered our destination for the day was not open on weekends.

So, plan B was implemented. We would go to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park instead and save the botanical gardens for Monday. We packed out by 8:45 – pretty good for vacation time – and set out on highway 11 for some 80 miles around the edge of the island. The views were stunning, the roads windy and the foliage along the way gigantic. There are so many plants here that I know as little house plants on end tables, yet in their natural environment they are simply gargantuan. Just like something from the land that time forgot. It still amazes me as we drive by and I see them 100 times the size I’m used to seeing.

About 10:20 we required a comfort stop and managed to locate the one town along the route with a gas station and a convenience store, Naalehu. As my driver bought some coffee, I browsed the little mini mart and my eye caught what my nose smelled . . . the aroma of fresh baked bread. What I found was Hawaiian Sweet bread from Punalu’u Bake Shop, the southern most bakery in the United States. That heavenly smell was coming from the stack of square loaves, about 18 inches long that looked strangely like angel food cake loaves. I simply had to have one. And, it was heavenly – in every way! All afternoon everytime we opened the car door we could smell that sweet Hawaiian bread as if it had just come out of the oven.

Not to be distracted with sideline attractions, we traveled on and made it to the Volcano Visitor Center by about 11:30. Since much of the park is closed due to the recent eruptions, the first thing we noticed were signs all over the place saying there is no active lava flow in the park this week. So we asked a ranger for her expert advice on where to go to safely see the volcano. She advised us not to miss the steam vents along the crater’s rim. So we hiked half the rim of Kilauea and could see steam escaping from various vents all along our walk. When the winds blew, the vapor floating past us felt hot – that’s very hot! It felt as if we had just opened the oven door to a blast of hot vapor in our faces. Our sunglasses fogged up and despite the heat, I was covered in goose bumps. It was very eerie.

You have to physically be there to experience the enormity and vastness; the unpredictability and the wonder of Mother Nature at work. I can’t describe the feeling when I first caught sight of the crater, or what it was like to stand at the rim and look into the caldera. We have been to Mount St. Helens and have seen the crater that blew out the side of the mountain — from several miles away. But today we were STANDING looking into the crater formed in May of this year, when Kilauea blew; actually seeing and feeling the steam venting literally at our feet.

After such an astonishing experience at the crater’s caldera, we hiked back to the car and drove to another suggested viewpoint to see lava beds from a blast that occured in 1974 – when we were in college. Despite such destruction, there is life coming back among the basalt. Life is tenacious and even in the midst of upheaval, life fights for survival. It’s an inspiring sight. There is much we could learn from the messages of nature. 

Leaving the park, we went in search of some refreshment. We found it at Hilo Burger Joint where they served a juicy, piping hot burger complete with crispy hot fries and fresh salad. It could not have been more refreshing. 

One last stop in Hilo was required before going back over the mountains to the Kona side of the island. My driver had found another Discount Fabrics in Hilo, a much larger town than Kona, and he knew my delight in finding another candy store to visit. And, just as my driver predicted, this fabric store was bigger than the one we had just visited in Kona, and it was more delightful as well. I found two more pieces of fabric I simply couldn’t go home without. Now, we could return to our apartment.

As we drove between Mouna Loa and Mouna Kea on the way back, the sun dappled the landscape as it sunk to meet the ocean. It was truly beautiful. Darkness arrived before us, but by this time we could find our way in the night, as the landscape was becoming a bit more familiar to us. There was so much wonder and beauty in this one day, packed between sunrise and sunset on the Big Island.

A very, very full day, with never to be forgotten experiences, made for very, very tired vacationers. Hence, the trouble with the technology last night just about sent me over the edge and I just had to stop and go to bed. But, grace and beauty surmount it all . . . and we are still here to enjoy one more day.

We stumbled out of bed late this morning after our exhaustion of yesterday. But we fortified ourselves with a breakfast of egg and cheese croissant with a side of fruit and Pom Wonderful to wash it down. The deck was the first choice for dining pleasure, but we found it was way too hot in the morning sun, so we moved inside to the shade – still enjoying the same view out to the ocean.

I put in a load of wash, cleaned up the breakfast dishes and took a walk out around the property to explore. This is a massive establishment, and we are definitely in the “cheap seats,” but it is still so wonderful for us. We just love the timeshare amenities of a full kitchen and washer and dryer, not to mention more room to spread out and no housekeeping to come in to bother us all week.

My driver planned for a short excursion today out to Pu’uhonua o Honaunau, The Place of Refuge for ancient Hawaiians. Not knowing at all what to expect of the place, we had stupidly not prepared for a walk in the sun and took neither water or sunscreen. But, no matter, we did enjoy the park immensely. We could have stayed all afternoon as it felt, sounded, smelled and looked like one would think of paradise. Really! Walking among the coconut trees and looking out to the ancient temple with the ocean as backdrop reminded one of James Michener’s Hawaii. We could see bright yellow fish, about the size of your hand, swimming close to shore. Some of the beach was cordoned off because it is a resting beach for sea turtles. Various birds called out and sang to each other as we walked over the ancient lava rocks and coral pebbles. The parks department has done a nice job of recreating structures that look like what was most likely in the area when it was considered “holy ground” and the sanctuary of the king. It still feels like holy ground to me today. The beauty is beyond question and grace fills every view in every direction.

After our walk of the grounds, listening to a ranger explain some of the historical significance of the site, and our drive back to our rooms, we were ready for a mid-afternoon snack of peanut butter and crackers, and a lot of refreshing, cold, rehydrating water. We stayed just long enough to snack, fold the clothes from the dryer, put another load in the washer, and then set out into the late afternoon.

Our destination was a fabric warehouse that serves this side of the island. And, it was like a candy store for this seamstress. I said that to the clerk as we were checking out and she laughed and said, “The best kind of candy – without calories.” Only another seamstress could really appreciate that. My driver helped me make several selections and I was delighted. The array of colors and patterns was a kaleidoscope of beauty. And, we will have shirts and table covers to remind us of this beautiful place.

We walked down the street and looked in a few shops as the Christmas lights came on and the other visitors looked for places for dinner. We returned to our apartment and made chicken caesar salad and humbow for dinner. It was delicious.

Today’s slower pace and natural, rugged  beauty was really an island gift. We both enjoyed it thoroughly.

13 December 2018

If there is a price for paradise, I think we’ve paid it many times over. We certainly paid for it last Sunday; and indeed, again today. I think we’ve paid every penny for this trip. What price, you ask? The price is travel.

After a quick yogurt and muffin in the room this morning, we finished packing and still had two hours before the shuttle would pick us up at noon. So, my travel partner read his book while I went out for one last walk through the paradise that is Ft. DeRussy and Waikiki. It had been windy overnight and all the evidence lay about the grounds like Mother Nature’s trash. Palm berries and nuts; huge palm fronds; as well as various other leaves and branches were strewn all over the park. There was a man with a little tractor and trailer driving around picking them up. He must have a really big clean green can for all he was collecting! I took a few last pictures in the bright midmorning sun and returned to the room to join my travel partner in checking out.

We left Luana Waikiki after paying an ammenties fee for amenities we did not use once. Well, that’s not true. We did use the Wifi . . . to the tune of $25 a day! But we were in paradise and that makes it all worth it.

Robert’s shuttle picked us up promptly at noon and took us direct to the airport. As we got off at the Hawaiian gates my heart stopped. There were thousands of people milling about and there seemed to be no order at all. Not only that, there was no signage at all. We had said a prayer of thanksgiving after printing our boarding passes yesterday and seeing we were TSA prechecked. But now, here in the airport, we couldn’t figure what line was what and there were several snaking all over the check-in area.

After several false starts we finally located the “inter-island travel desk” and got our luggage tagged. Then we had to stand in a long line to get our luggage to the check-in area. Once we arrived at the head of the line the woman said, “No laptops or computers in any of these bags, right?”

Wait. What? “Yes, he has a laptop in his bag.”

“It has to come out. You have to carry that on.”

“But we looked it up and it said we could put laptops in our checked luggage.” (No acconting for the fact that we’d already checked that laptop on two other flights in the last week!)

“Well, think about it. If a battery burns up and it’s in the hold we can’t stop the fire. You have to have it with you in the cabin so if it starts a fire, we can put it out.”

So, now the flight attendants are also firefighters? I’m sorry, I don’t mean to disparage anyone, but each person along the way making up their own rules just about sends me over the edge. But what can you do? If you don’t want to stand in this line forever . . . if you want to get on the plane . . . if you expect to check your bags and move on . . . you open your suitcase in front of God and everyone and take your laptop out so you can carry it (along with the two other items you have to carry on) over to the TSA check point. Which was yet another long line. . . . But wait! We were prechecked- where do we go for precheck? To another long line, of course. (Still, I have to be honset and report it was not as long as the other line, but it was long enough.)

So we get up to the front of the TSA precheck line and the person says “Nothing out of the bags, sir. You don’t have to take anything out of the bags.” Well, it wouldn’t be out of the bag if the last person hadn’t told me I had to take it out! So now we have to fumble to find a place to fit the laptop into the already stretched to skintight bag – but it did fit. And, we didn’t have to take anything else out of our bags. We got to leave our shoes on, too. What a treat.

By the time we made it through security we were exhaused. We found our gate and took a seat. My travel companion went to find coffee and a sandwich while I watched our bags. The flight left on time and was another short trip from the island of Oahu to the Island of Hawaii. The fun part for me was I got to sit by the window and see us flying over Oahu; Molokai; Maui and Hawaii, where we landed. It was easy to spot Waikiki, Diamondhead; Lahania and Haleakala from the air. It was a beautiful clear day, although at 23,000 feet, there were a few clouds.

Landing in Kona, we deplaned down an old-school ramp and into the open air gates of the airport. Each gate was a little hut and all the surroundings areas were out in the open air! After some searching, we found the direction to baggage claim. My travel partner made the comment that if you were a sign maker in Kona, there would be no work for you, since it’s quite obvious no one is making signs here.

As soon as our bags came up we took them out to the street and there was a Hertz van just waiting for us. He took us directly to the rental car lot and we picked up the car we will have for the week, a Nissan Altima. We fired up our Gypsie (that’s GPS, for those of you you haven’t traveled with us before) and followed her directions to the Royal Sea Cliff Kailua-Kona and checked in.

Our rooms are lovely. The condo is on a cliff and we have a deck looking out to the ocean. We are not as close to the water as we were at Maui, but it is very nice. It’s a one bedroom unit with full kitchen and a deck that joins the living space and bedroom. The sun was just beginning to set as we brought our bags in and started to make ourselves at home. It will be nice to have this as a base for the next seven days.

Now, for something to eat! I was starving as I didn’t have a sandwich at the airport. My driver (yes, he’s turned back into my driver, but is still the same lovely traveling companion) had scoped out a place called The Harbor Grill. Some just plain, good food sounded like the best. We found the grill and had a very satisfying dinner in the open-air dinning room right at a little harbor. As we ate, the sky turned pink and golden; purple and gray, to dark as the sun set.

Next order of business: a trip to Costco for some supplies and an auxilary trip to Safeway so we can stock our little kitchen and have the makings for a few inhouse meals.

Settled now, I think we will be able to relax a little. This travel business is a high price to pay for paradise, but I’m hoping this time and this place will all be worth it. It has been so far. I just have to remember nothing is free. If I want the beauty of an exotic destination, I have to be willing to put up with the price of traveling there. Arriving is its own grace. And, the place is beautiful.

Since this would be our last day at Luana Waikiki, I decided this must be a day for photographs only! Starting out with the one complementary “all you can eat” breakfast bar, courtesy of the hotel, we sat leisurely through breakfast. Soon we determined there wasn’t much point in “all you could eat” since the first helping wasn’t all that appetizing. Nothing was hot unless it came right from the toaster, and the tiny space (only 4 tables) began to be so crowded there was little to no service. Yet, we did manage to find enough to satisfy and send us out  into the day.

Others don’t always understand or share my excitement for photography, so my travel companion made the decision to relax in the room and catch up on some emails, the news, and his novel which is getting exciting.

I took my big Nikon camera and retraced steps with scenic views I wanted to capture in the morning light. Along the way, I enjoyed a variety of birds; their songs; little children delighting in the surf; butterflies alighting the brilliant tropical flowers; as well as tiny birds feeding on the iconic Hawaiian flowers. A couple from England struck up a conversation while I was shooting away. They wanted to make sure I had seen all there was to see in the area. They were leaving in just an hour – and I had a whole day yet. I rejoiced with them that they had seen so much and had enjoyed their vacation, assuring them that I would do the same. I sensed there was just a tiny bit of sadness on their part as they reflected on leaving this island paradise.

Taking over 300 pictures, I realized I should probably rejoin my travel companion and stop for some hydration as well. It seemed hotter today than previous days. I walked back toward the hotel and reviewed my pictures. I can’t wait to see them on my computer at home. Traveling with only minimal technology always seems to be a trial.

My travel companion was itching for a nap, so I got my hat and camera and went back out walking in the other direction. There seemed to be more people every minute, as if the “prime time” at the beach was approaching. But, no matter. I enjoyed the sights anyway. On my way back I stopped at a few shops we had skirted past yesterday and made a purchase or two; ensuring we would have some breakfast in the room before starting out for the airport tomorrow. And, each time I return to the hotel I’m reminded it really is Christmas time. Their tree is beautiful and it will be the only tree we have this year! I might as well enjoy it as someone took all that time to decorate it just for us.

Sometime later my travel partner woke from his nap and was ready to go down to the beach for sunset. That was my bookend for the day. I wanted sunset pictures and perhaps a better shot of Diamond Head, since the morning sun does not do it justice.

As we stepped out, it began to rain – a soft, gentle, misty, island rain that gradually accumulated enough to get us thoroughly wet for a few minutes. I didn’t want to expose my camera to such elements, so we opted to find some dinner first and hoped to see the rain stop so we might catch a sunset a little later.

Since we were already walking in the direction of The Steak Shack, we decided that would be a fine place to celebrate this momentous day. Exactly 44 years ago today my travel partner and I first met. Just about this time of night. And my life has never been the same since. So, we have now spent over two thirds of our lives together. What a grace it is to have such a traveling companion; driver; best friend; lover and father of our children. And he’s the only person in the world I would stand with in the rain on Waikiki Beach. A dinner at The Steak Shack seemed so appropriate.

As we were finishing up the last of our spinach salad, steak and rice the clouds parted, the blue sky immerged and the pink of the setting sun painted the horizon. We cleaned up our little picnic table and walked out onto a quay that was right in front of The Steak Shack. I photographed and documented the sun taking its leave of this day. It was breathtakingly beautiful. And, right beside me was my best friend of 44 years, still taking my breath away, too. There is no greater grace in this world.

We walked slowly back to the hotel reminiscing the events of that evening 44 years ago. It was the perfect cherry on top of a perfect day.

All that needs yet to be done is getting packed up so we can make our connections to the airport and the Big Island tomorrow.

Without a car we had little choice but to explore the beach at Waikiki and surrounding areas by foot. But we had planned it that way. That’s what we wanted to do. And, do it we did.

After a breakfast of yogurt and a muffin purchased from the ABC store last night, I went out with my tracker and walked down the beach and back again for three miles. It was lovely. The sun was shinning and a few spotty showers moistened the area, but it was altogether “magical,” as the kids would say. I enjoyed the sights, the sounds, the flora and the fauna.

I started out by turning right out of the lobby and right again into the grounds of old Fort DeRussy, which is now a city park. For almost 100 years it was an Army recreation center and served as a major place of R&R for soldiers from Vietnam.

By the time I got back from my walk, my walking partner was ready to emerge and walk with me. While out, I had passed Battery Randolph, now an Army museum in the park. Unfortunately, it didn’t open until 10:00, so I walked on. Now, deciding where to go and what to do, I suggested we might start our day with a visit there.

It was a lovely museum and by the time we had finished going through the history of the U.S. Army presence in this area through six wars, we were long over due for some substantial lunch. My walking partner had scoped out The Steak Shack while I was in the museum bookstore, so we set out trying to follow our tracker to this lunch destination. The only problem was, we simply couldn’t find it. We would walk one way and then another. Back the way we came and back again. The Steak Shack was illusive. But we did not give up. Stumbling on a Starbucks, I went in to ask how to get to The Steak Shack. The directions reminded us of directions in D.C. – where there are no straight roads or 90 degree turns. But, eventually we found the Waikiki Steak Shack and were glad we did. It was fantastic. Just a little shack, they served only one thing: steak, rice, and salad. Your only option was how much steak you wanted – 6 oz.; 10 oz.; 12 oz.; or 14 ounces – and what kind of dressing you wanted on your spinach. When our boxes were filled, they called our name and we followed the line before us to get a little picnic table and sit by the beach to eat. While enjoying our steak we met a couple from Illinois enjoying their steak, too. We commiserated about the price of food here and its mediocre quality; but both of us agreed The Steak Shack was a priceless find.

After lunch we walked on through the winding trails of hotel lobbies and street shops that wove their way along the beach route. The sun came out. Then it would rain and the sun would come out again. At the International Market, an outdoor market on the street, we felt like we were running a gauntlet to get past all the hawkers vying for our attentions. But we did stop and buy a few trinkets. One thing we learned about ourselves is we are poor hagglers. When the expected thing to do is haggle, we sadly come up short. So, I’m sure we paid much more for small things than we should have, but I think this entire state survives on a tourist economy. At least we felt we did a little to help support that.

We sat along the beach for a while and enjoyed the sun as the surf rolled in and the people strolled by. Then we walked back to our hotel to get off of our feet. We watched the national news for the first time in days, then went out in search of a light dinner. We wanted not only lighter fare, but a lighter fare. We actually found neither, but we did have an interesting walk trying to find the place. We did our usual – walk this way and back again; no, this way and back again, before a kind pedestrian overheard us and asked what we were looking for. “Roundtable Pizza,” we answered. She informed us it was located in the Royal Hawaiian Village, and even then we couldn’t find it by a direct route.

I’m convinced everything here is difficult to find so that you lose your concentration and give up, settling for something else along the way. But, we did eventually find the Roundtable and got a salad and small pizza to share. It still totaled over $50!

But the walk back to the hotel along the beach at night was worth the price. No one else was about and the birds were singing; the waves lapping; the stars shinning and a periodic gentle rain falling. What a wonderful way to end a day of exploring Waikiki by foot. Having seen and explored everything we could in a day, now we’ll put our feet up for the rest of the night.

Another early – very early – start to the day (meeting the bus at 6:35 a.m.) for a day-long tour of Pearl Harbor.  We left the hotel in darkness and rain, and returned in darkness and rain. But the hours in between were filled to brimming with history and interesting facts about the Day That Will Live in Infamy.

We first went to the Arizona Memorial and procured tickets for a 9:15 launch over to the memorial. Unfortunately, the memorial itself could not be entered because of necessary repairs being made on the launch dock that allows entry to the memorial. This was disappointing, indeed, but the Navy launch did take us over to the Arizona and allowed for multiple opportunities for pictures from the water. The experience was quite moving and the aura of reverence was palpable. I do remember from being on the memorial once before in December of 1971, that the wreck of the Arizona itself is visible through the clear waters and the view is unspeakably emotional. We missed that part today as we could not go into the memorial and look out over the sunken ship. However, it was still quite moving and we were so glad for the opportunity to view the memorial and see the wreaths and flowers that were left just three days ago for the 77th anniversary of the attack.

We visited the museums and viewed films that were all part of the National Park that is Pearl Harbor now. The USS Bowfin, a submarine that had the most “kills” of Japanese ships was open for visiting, and I had to take the tour. My travel companion decided to try and tour the sub, but he only make it to the first bulkhead before turning back. Crawling through a submarine door at 65 is not what it would have been at 19 or 20. Much safer to simply view if from the deck and conning tower.

Each time I have had the opportunity to visit a submarine, I am overcome with appreciation for those who served in this special way. I could never have done it. The quarters were too small; the spaces too tight; the air too precious; and the fears beyond my imagining. The brave men who chose this service were brave men, indeed.

From the Arizona and Bowfin, we took the bus over the recently constructed bridge (well, in the last 30 years) to Ford Island itself. Ford Island was the site of the Army air field and housed the planes that were all part of the air defense of the harbor. Most of the planes were also destroyed on that December day in 1941. But hangar 37 and 79 saw minimal damage and still stand to this day, although they sport some bullet holes in several windows that have never been repaired after the attack.

Lunch was waiting for us at the Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum. We sat with a group from Australia and enjoyed conversation about the Australia film industry. An Asian salad was the entree and it certainly did replenish our energy to complete the rest of the afternoon.

Entry into the Aviation Museum was next on the agenda. I overheard some folks talking at lunch that hangar 79 was closed today because they were moving aircraft back in after a large event that had been held there for the anniversary on the 7th. I became immediately concerned because I knew that hangar 79 housed the only plane I really wanted to see . . . the only plane I had come to see, The Swamp Ghost. She is a B-17 E that had been crash landed in a swamp in New Guinea and had remained there for almost 70 years before being removed and brought to the Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum.

Concerned that I might not get to see her, I asked the nearest docent if the hangar was open. “Well, it should be by now. But they were moving aircraft earlier and so they might not be done.” “But what if I really need to see the B-17 that’s in there?” I asked politely. “Well,” he offered, “If it is closed, just find one of us in a black shirt and tell him you really need to be able to see it and they’ll probably take you in.” I could not have asked of a more compassionate and creative response.

We decided not to tempt fate and moved directly to hangar 79. And, yes, it was closed. So I found the nearest man wearing a black shirt and told him what his colleague had told me. “Well, we are closed,” he explained, “But tell me a little bit about why you need to go in and see her?” I shared how I was on a quest to see all the remaining B-17s in the country and if I could see Swamp Ghost, she would be either my 26th or 27th B-17 that I’ve seen and have been able to photograph. My travel companion added some bits of information, sharing that I was doing this for research for a book . . . . Well, that seemed to do the trick. He took us over to another colleague of his and told him my story. The guy just said, “I’ll take you over there after we talk about the B-29.” I was overjoyed. We got a personal tour of the aircraft that were in hangar 79, with a detailed story of Swamp Ghost, how she got her name and how she got to this museum. I took pictures to my heart’s content. We thanked him multiple times and he wished me happy writing! Now, I really do have to get to that book.

After that little thrill, we visited hangar 37 and the rest of the museum. Meeting back at the bus the driver was apologizing that hangar 79 was closed and we weren’t able to see The Swamp Ghost. My travel companion asked, “Should we tell him?” “No,” I answered, “There’s really no need to upset anyone.” I was just so grateful I had overheard the guys talking during lunch so I had enough of a tip to ask about it before finding out it was off limits. The kindness of the docents was commendable, and I truly appreciate someone sharing their excitement for history and its artifacts as much as I do. Thank you, guys.

Back on the bus, we took the short ride farther down Ford Island to visit the USS Missouri, where WWII was officially concluded. Surrender papers were signed on the deck of the Missouri on September 2, 1945. Two hours were required to take the self-walking tour through the giant battleship. It’s quite amazing and always humbling to walk the decks and passageways of a Naval vessel. Everyone should do it at least once, and imagine while doing so what it must have been like to live and work aboard during a conflict. There is gratitude in my heart each time I have the privilege of visiting one of our Naval giants.

We returned back to Pearl Harbor to retrieve our bags. (Well, I forgot to say we had to stow away any bags we were carrying with us because of security measures while at the memorial. Thankfully, I had made a split-secord decision this morning not to take my big camera – for what reason, I can’t even say. Yet, I knew in an instant I was grateful for the inclination when I learned we could only take with us into the memorial grounds and onto Ford Island, what we could fit in our pockets!)

On the way back into town we drove up into the National Cemetery, The Punchbowl, where many victims of that horrific day are laid to rest. I was looking forward to taking some pictures, but by that time in the day everyone was getting antsy (including me) and the driver didn’t want to stop or let anyone out for any reason. Hence, I have only drive-by shots of this very moving memorial to the many, many men and women who lost their lives in service to their country.

A tour through downtown Honolulu was the last attraction of the day. We were driven past government buildings; the Queen’s palace; and other historical sites particular to Hawaiian culture and history. Unfortunately, by this time in the day the skies had opened and the rains obstructed any opportunity for pictures of any kind. Still, the tour was interesting, but our brains were getting full and all of us were thinking about dinner and a little peace and quiet

Our drop off was the second one and we immediately walked across the street and down the block to Cheeseburgers Waikiki for a hot sandwich and some ice cream cake for dessert.

Our feet ached; our heads were full; our memories overflowed and our appreciation for our freedom and the sacrifice of others to preserve it, greatly enhanced. What a day it has been. One that will live in memory.

The itinerary today required a move from Lahaina on the island of Maui to Honolulu on the island of Oahu. And, If ever there was a day when I longed for the technology and expediency of the transporter from Star Trek, it was today. If I had millions of dollars to spend, I’d invest it in the research and brainpower to make such a handy device happen.

We arose early and did our requisite packing and cleaning up. But we still had a couple of hours to wait before our shuttle bus would come to pick us up. So, we sat out on the balcony, had our breakfast and listened to the surf crash against the sand beneath us as the sun rose one more time. We read our books and both got drowsy, wishing we had the time for a mid morning nap like we had yesterday. This traveling and sightseeing is hard work!

We checked out of our room and sat in the lobby to wait for the shuttle driver to arrive. And, we waited and waited. About the time we got worried enough to call the service, he pulled up. There were only two seats left in the van – but not together. He did get us to the airport, however, and that was a good thing.

Lining up for security was a nightmare. It was Sunday and everyone on Hawaii was traveling somewhere today. Our loooong line was diverted about half way back to split off to another check line. We scampered away following the barricades to keep us in our assigned place. And, unlike when we left from Seattle, today we were required to 1)take off our shoes; 2) take out any electronics larger than a cell phone and place them in a separate bin; take out any snacks; etc.; etc.; etc. I think the state of Hawaii is on high alert for any unauthorized snacks! I couldn’t believe it – but I complied. I pulled out my little Nook reader and my big Nikon camera with her zoom lens attached and put them in a separate bin.

As I leaned down to take off my shoes, a TSA person brought another huge pile of bins back and set them right in front of me. In an instant, the woman in front of me shifted and her elbow knocked my bin to the floor. It was the bin holding my little Nook and my big, beloved, EXPENSIVE Nikon camera and lens. I just about went into shock. Of course there was no time to stop and inspect anything – the masses were pushing us forward. I picked them up and put them back in the bin and kept being pushed forward. Once they had gone into the x-ray, I looked up, but  was so disoriented I ran into the side of the security arch I was supposed to walk through, setting off the alarm. And, I thought I was rattled before! I stood frozen, waiting for someone to tell me what to do. I hadn’t even actually gotten to the arch yet! The TSA guy at this point just said with exasperation, but absolutely no affect: “Step back and away. Step back and away.” Okay. Okay. I stepped back and away. The alarm stopped. Then he waved me into the walkway arch and I just kept walking as no alarm sounded. I retrieved my beloved camera that I hoped was still working as a camera and stuffed everything back into my carry-on bag before the people behind me trampled me. I was so rattled I had to stop and sit down to put my shoes back on. I was glad I had a traveling companion – but in situations like this, there really is no help to be had. This is the state of travel in the 21st century.

We found gate 11 and flight 251 going to Oahu and managed to squeeze into two of the last seats that were vacant. I was so wound up I had to take everything out of my bag and at least check to see if my camera was still working. Thankfully, it still was. But it was a heart-stopping experience, let me tell you.

I offered to walk back out of the waiting area to get my companion some coffee, as I needed some water. I stopped at the first kiosk I saw and asked if there was a Starbucks located within the security area. “No security!” she said. “No security! It’s right down there.” Not wanting to stop and clarify anything, I gingerly went out into the “main” part of the airport being careful no to go through any gates that might require me to go back through security again! What a trauma.

I did find the Starbucks and got the coffee and water I was after. Our flight was called and, like cattle going to slaughter, we all crowded at the gate and fought for a space while keeping within the barricades. Thankfully, the flight was only 40 minutes long. About the time we took off they offered juice or water, which was served from a little 3 oz cup with a foil cap. About the time we drank the 3 ounces of juice or water, the pilot called for the flight attendants to ready for landing. It really was that quick. But I’m sure the transporter would be altogether less hectic – and faster, too.

We found our bags and located the shuttle service that had our reservation to take us into Honolulu. If I wasn’t already stressed, this little scenario might have been comic. I was beginning to wonder if any one of them had a license to drive – they couldn’t do much else. We followed our bags closely, lest they end up at some other destination than we were going. Thankfully, an entirely different man, wearing a different colored Hawaiian shirt (meaning he was with a different company than those who had just handled the baggage) got into the van to drive us. He introduced himself as Johnny and he did seem like he knew where he was going. And, he did.

As we drove into Honolulu, a huge rainbow filled the sky. Well, that’s a sign; a promise, if you will, that this part of the trip will be just fine. My camera will work and we will be in the right place at the right time. Johnny dropped us off at the Luana Hotel in downtown (right next to what used to be old Ft. Derussy, but is now a beautiful city park and beach) and we checked in. The room is fine, but a far cry from the beautiful spot we had just left on Maui. This is city living now – and there is no way we could have afforded a spot on the beach here. I’m so glad we had four days in Lahaina first.

Not having had a bite since our little breakfast on the balcony back in Maui, we were famished. We quickly made the decision to go to the closest place we could find that was reasonable. That turned out to be a Tony Roma’s just a block away. If it had been any farther we might not have made it. The dinner was fine, although I sent my baked potato back because it wasn’t even hot – and I NEVER do that kind of thing. I guess all the jumble of the day just made me WANT a hot baked potato! And, the waiter kindly took it back and did bring me a hot one. Thank you!

As we ate, the restaurant filled with visitors from Japan, speaking Japanese all around us. The rain that was off in the distance creating the rainbow we had seen earlier caught up with us and came down in sheets outside. It was still raining when we left, but in Hawaii, I’m not sure anyone ever really gets wet. The heat almost dries up anything that gets wet at about the same rate as the rain falls.

We stopped at an ABC store for some yogurt and muffins for breakfast and then walked one block further to find the exact spot we will be picked up from tomorrow for our tour of Pearl Harbor. That begins at 6:45, so tomorrow is another early and long day. But, I am so looking forward to it.

Through all the gyrations of today, I couldn’t help but think that somehow we have lost a measure of civility we once had. Traveling is big business, but no one seems to think that a little kindness or compassion, much less simple directness and information, might be a small salve to see us through the necessary requirements of our times. Just because we have to suffer the demands of our challenging days, does not mean we should think it acceptable to be treated like cattle. Can’t we be screened and questioned in a civil manner as we do it? We are not suspects. We are travelers. Just a thought after a harrowing day that should not have been as harrowing as it was.

We will sleep well tonight, dreaming of transporters and travel in a kinder and gentler way. Maybe it can be less hectic and exhausting, too.

We awoke long before the sun and, with cameras in hand, walked over to the harbor slip where we were to meet the Ocean Discovery. The clerk was just opening the window to his kiosk at Slip #4 when we walked up. He looked as if he had slept as little as we had! But no matter. We were going in search of whales in Lahaina’s harbor and surrounding waters.

We were informed that the boat could hold 140 passengers and there were only 26 of us signed up for the tour, so there would be plenty of room for everyone to see all the whales. We went aboard when it was still dark, but tiny traces of light seemed to begin to emerge from around Haleakala. We could spot the Big Dipper; Orion; and Venus before the stars and planets gave way to the rising sun. It was beautiful. The clouds overhanging Lahaina’s mountains were turning pink and magenta before turning golden and back to soft grey in the full daylight.

One of the crew thought they spotted a spout before we were even out of the harbor; so the Captain slowed and stayed in the area hoping for another sighting. After about a half an hour, she decided to go on into open waters. The morning was stunning as the sun reflected off the ocean and the wind picked up in the open waters. Still, all of that at about 70 degrees – nothing at all like it is at home on the water, even in the dead of summer.

At our farthest point, a whale was sighted. I saw about three spouts, which easily could have all come from the same whale. Then we spotted the creature arching for a dive and the fluke peeked up and down again. It was thrilling. The Captain hung around that area for a good long time hoping to see the same whale surface again before we had to move back closer to the harbor and home.

Needless to say, it wasn’t the most exciting whale watch tour I’ve experienced, but it was thrilling to see the spouts and a fluke. The creatures are so massive and graceful they always amaze me. In addition, the day was beautiful and the chance to be on the water at sunrise was a grace all its own.

From the dock we walked back to Betty’s Cafe for breakfast and sat beach side – no windows or walls obstructing our views. It was 9 a.m. A full plate of bacon and eggs and ono benedict later, we both felt better and went back to our room to read and relax a little. Relaxing included a short nap and we woke to the sun brightly beating in our balcony doors. It was already after noon. We snapped ourselves awake and went out walking along the beach and into town.

The Saturday craft market was set up by the Banyan Tree and visitors of all manner and origin were shopping and enjoying the sights. We walked to a destination about a mile and a half away, Hilo Hattie’s, just to look at her selection of Hawaiian shirts. Someone had told us we must not miss the chance to see her products. It was a lovely store and although my travel partner didn’t find the shirt he was looking for – I found one I liked from the 70% off rack. That made it affordable and I couldn’t resist.

We also found an establishment that would ship Maui pineapples home – so we put in an order. It will be Christmas when we get back, after all.

Exhausted from all the walking and sightseeing we needed re-fueling. My travel partner had spotted “Sale Pepe” the other day and had planned to make that our dinner destination today. We finally found the place and saw on the sign that it didn’t open until 5:00. So we spent the twenty minutes of waiting in the nearby grocery store to pick up some bagels for breakfast in the morning.

We came back and were seated at Sale Pepe’s and enjoyed a luscious, if way too rich,  Italian dinner. We ate too much and were grateful for the mile and a half walk back to the hotel to burn off a fraction of some of our dinner calories. But, of course, along the way we had to stop and admire the sliver of a moon rising over the beach and neighboring island; the Banyan Tree adorned with Christmas lights; and enjoy a small taste of pineapple whipped ice. It was the perfect dessert; light and refreshing.

Walking in short sleeves and shorts in the dark of the evening on a tropical island certainly is incongruent with Christmas carols; but they were streaming out of every establishment, and even playing in the park by the Banyan Tree. We can hardly believe it is Christmas time, as the weather is more perfectly “summer” than any summer we ever have at home. We have to remind ourselves hourly that it is December.

Reflecting on this day we were grateful for a host of paradoxical graces: for darkness, yet also for light from the stars and planets; for warmth, even when it gets just a little too warm; for pre-dawn blackness that gives way to a golden sunrise, birthing a new day; for vessels on the waters and views of the islands from the vantage of ancient mariners; for seeing a tiny glimpse of a whale, even though they are enormous creatures; for resting, just because we could; for the brilliance of a rainbow that spanned the morning and lasted until the setting sun, sheltering the island; for eating more than we needed and being grateful for the privilege and opportunity to do so; and for seeing the “fingernail moon” setting over the beach and a neighboring island as the sun set on another day in paradise.

A little bit of a “lay in” (as the Brits would say) and cinnamon rolls from Makawao’s bakery out on our balcony overlooking Lahaina’s harbor began this marvelous day. We ate to the gentle sounds of the surf; reflected on the beauty of the morning; and watched as a couple did over an hour of yoga moves on the sand below us. Somehow their exhuberance didn’t exactly rub off on us. We continued to watch the surf and eat our rolls, content with ourselves; the world; and this particular moment in this particular place. (The cinnamon rolls were excellent, by the way).

Before the sun rose to its heights, I wanted to walk down Front Street without the crowds and without the heat that the afternoon brings. I took only my little purse and my phone camera and set out. I managed to walk the first mile in good time, and then the shops started opening about 9:30, drawing people out onto the streets. I walked on and went past the shopping district in search of a tiny beach I could see in the distance. I never actually found it, as all the drives toward it had posted signs declaring “Dead End.” Afraid that it might be a private beach, I gave up and turned around to go back toward the hotel through the shopping district.

I must admit, I did stop and do some shopping. I didn’t think my travel partner would mind. He was happily reading and drinking his coffee on the balcony and not at all enticed by the thought of exercise or shopping. As I went into shop after shop, I conversed with the shopkeepers and learned some very interesting things. First, there are no private beaches in Hawaii! What a novel idea. One person told me that little beach I had sighted was named “Baby Beach” and I just needed to keep walking until one of those dead end streets also had a sign for “Beach Access.” So, that will be on the agenda tomorrow.

At another shop I found the desk for making reservations for whale watching cruises and talked at length with the clerk there. She convinced me that a whale watching trip was a “must see” for Maui, especially this time of year. I must admit, she didn’t have to work very hard! I called my travel partner to confirm he would like to go with me and then bought tickets for tomorrow morning at sunrise. This woman assured me it would be the most spectacular time of day to see the whales as the whales are particularly active and the waters particularly calm at that time. I can’t wait until tomorrow.

As I returned to the hotel I began to scope out places for lunch as I knew my travel partner would be ready for a hot lunch after my over three hours of walking and shopping. So I stopped along the way and read menus and checked out who was eating what. As I passed the Piai’s Fishmarket on Front Street, I noticed a crowd of happy diners sitting at picnic tables in the shade enjoying their food. I read the menu and decided it would be just the place to take my travel partner. Part of our explorations must always include new and different things to try and places to see. This seemed to fit the bill perfectly.

Indeed, I was correct that lunch was the next item on the day’s activity list. And Piai’s Firshmarket was entirely agreeable with my travel partner. We ordered and went outside to claim the only empty seats available – one end of a picnic table. When our Cajun blackened Ahai and chicken Caesar salad came we were delighted with the quality and the preparation. It turned out to be a great pick and we enjoyed it immensely.

From Piai’s we walked across the street to Lahaina Harbor to track down the slip where we will be leaving from at 6:30 tomorrow morning. Easily found, we went into the old courthouse, located right on the harbor, and visited the museum there. It was filled with Maui and Hawaiian history and we learned some bits of historical information we did not know about the area.

Passing through the Banyan Tree Park we marveled at the tree that filled the entire park – and is only one organism. A banyan tree sends out air shoots from its limbs and sends them down to the ground to create new trees – still entirely connected to the original tree in the center of the grounds. It is most unusual, but very impressive. The tree was planted in 1873 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of missionaries coming to Hawaii and has continued to grow and expand ever since.

Arriving back at the hotel about 3:30, that ice cream we bought yesterday and forgot about seemed like it was just meant for this moment. We replenished our liquids and were refreshed by some ice cream before closing up our room and putting on some AC for the hottest part of the day. Rest is good, too. Everyone needs some moments of rest.

Dinner consisted of left-over pizza from last night – which was still delightfully delicious. We caught up on some national news before stepping out for an evening walk in the cooler hours of the evening. Since it was already dark, it was a quiet walk in the sand and surf under the stars. The only sounds were the lapping waves until the nightly drums and fire dancing from a luau taking place at an establishment down the beach started up. We slowly walked back along the beach to our gate access and tucked in for an early bedtime. We have to be at the boat at 5:45 tomorrow morning..

A previously planned tour from Seattle had us up before dawn at 6:00 to join our tour to Haleakala – the volcano on Maui. It felt like a short night, but we had slept the sleep of the dead and were perfectly ready to rise by 5:30. That time change traveling west helps, too.

We went to the lobby at our assigned time to see the Gray Line tour bus waiting by the door. We asked if this was the Haleakala tour and someone said “No. It’s the best of Maui tour.” Well, little did we know, they are the same thing. Not even our driver recognized this at first. (And when we returned to our room at the end of the day we had a message on the phone that our driver was probably making as we stood confused in the lobby, saying she could only wait two more minutes for us and then she would have to leave.) The mix up was quickly solved; we boarded the mini bus and took off as the sun was rising over Haleakala. It was a beautiful morning. There were 15 people in all on our tour and our driver was Hokeu (which means “Star.”). It made for a very pleasant day.

Hokeu expertly drove us on switchback roads to the top of the volcano, which took us to 9,240 feet above sea level. It was also above the clouds. The views were stunning on this pristine, clear day and we not only saw the crater of the volcano, but most of the island of Maui as well as the two highest peaks on the Big Island, to the east. I can’t describe what the crater looked like; only a picture can tell it all. To my mind it looked like something out of a science fiction movie – barren; rocky; red; with small pulverized rock and intermittent large boulders. Very strange, but oh, so intriguing. This volcano last erupted 500 years ago – yet it looks like it could have been yesterday. There were a minimal number of small bush-like plants with bright silvery-green, spiked leaves. The little plant, silversword, is only found on this volcano. It lives for about 90 years and only blooms once – right before it dies. Now, doesn’t that sound like something out of a science fiction movie? But, we saw it. Right here in Maui.

Coming down the mountain was filled with the same magnificent views, mountains and landscapes – only this time in reverse with sunshine from a little higher in the sky. All of it beautiful. Breathtakingly beautiful.

Once down the volcano, we stopped in the little town of Makawao and entered a small restaurant with “Casanova” proudly displayed on every server’s T shirt. I could only guess that was the name of this little Italian Cafe. It was a sheer delight to be treated to such delicious fare. The pasta was all made in-house and the sauces were individually prepared in the searing pan. It really was exquisite. And the shock of it all was . . . it was the least expensive food we have purchased on the island so far!!!

Following lunch we were given time to walk the little town and explore some native shops. Everything was beautiful, but what these visitors ended up finding was the local bakery. Of course we purchased items for breakfast tomorrow. And for dessert – a donut on a stick. I guess that’s very Hawaiian. When we told Hokeu we were surprised as we had never heard of such a treat, she laughed a hearty, deep, joyous laugh. But these donuts on a stick were no laughing matter – they were excellent!

Then Hokeu took us across the valley on Maui between the two volcanos and into the heart of the Iao Valley and the state park that is named for it. Now we saw what Hawaii must have looked like long before all the commercialization and expansion. It was like a PBS show of native lands untouched by growth or modernization. It was approaching late afternoon and the clouds were beginning to make the sun play hide and seek, but still the land was absolutely picturesque and iconic. The scenery was the exact opposite of the volcano: green, green foliage and colorful, unique local flowers. How can two such contrasting landscapes exist only miles from each other? Answer: Because they are both in Hawaii.

We were first to be dropped back at our hotel and we were happy to return to a little air conditioning and a soft chair. We saw so much on our tour that it took the remainder of my phone battery just to look over my pictures of the day.

As the sun set (at 5:45) we journeyed out onto the beach for some pictures. How many ways are there to say beautiful? I could never come up with enough variety to do this land justice. Let’s suffice it to say it is graced.

A small pizza at the cafe next to the hotel capped off the day. Who could ask for anything more?