Another early – very early – start to the day (meeting the bus at 6:35 a.m.) for a day-long tour of Pearl Harbor.  We left the hotel in darkness and rain, and returned in darkness and rain. But the hours in between were filled to brimming with history and interesting facts about the Day That Will Live in Infamy.

We first went to the Arizona Memorial and procured tickets for a 9:15 launch over to the memorial. Unfortunately, the memorial itself could not be entered because of necessary repairs being made on the launch dock that allows entry to the memorial. This was disappointing, indeed, but the Navy launch did take us over to the Arizona and allowed for multiple opportunities for pictures from the water. The experience was quite moving and the aura of reverence was palpable. I do remember from being on the memorial once before in December of 1971, that the wreck of the Arizona itself is visible through the clear waters and the view is unspeakably emotional. We missed that part today as we could not go into the memorial and look out over the sunken ship. However, it was still quite moving and we were so glad for the opportunity to view the memorial and see the wreaths and flowers that were left just three days ago for the 77th anniversary of the attack.

We visited the museums and viewed films that were all part of the National Park that is Pearl Harbor now. The USS Bowfin, a submarine that had the most “kills” of Japanese ships was open for visiting, and I had to take the tour. My travel companion decided to try and tour the sub, but he only make it to the first bulkhead before turning back. Crawling through a submarine door at 65 is not what it would have been at 19 or 20. Much safer to simply view if from the deck and conning tower.

Each time I have had the opportunity to visit a submarine, I am overcome with appreciation for those who served in this special way. I could never have done it. The quarters were too small; the spaces too tight; the air too precious; and the fears beyond my imagining. The brave men who chose this service were brave men, indeed.

From the Arizona and Bowfin, we took the bus over the recently constructed bridge (well, in the last 30 years) to Ford Island itself. Ford Island was the site of the Army air field and housed the planes that were all part of the air defense of the harbor. Most of the planes were also destroyed on that December day in 1941. But hangar 37 and 79 saw minimal damage and still stand to this day, although they sport some bullet holes in several windows that have never been repaired after the attack.

Lunch was waiting for us at the Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum. We sat with a group from Australia and enjoyed conversation about the Australia film industry. An Asian salad was the entree and it certainly did replenish our energy to complete the rest of the afternoon.

Entry into the Aviation Museum was next on the agenda. I overheard some folks talking at lunch that hangar 79 was closed today because they were moving aircraft back in after a large event that had been held there for the anniversary on the 7th. I became immediately concerned because I knew that hangar 79 housed the only plane I really wanted to see . . . the only plane I had come to see, The Swamp Ghost. She is a B-17 E that had been crash landed in a swamp in New Guinea and had remained there for almost 70 years before being removed and brought to the Pearl Harbor Aviation Museum.

Concerned that I might not get to see her, I asked the nearest docent if the hangar was open. “Well, it should be by now. But they were moving aircraft earlier and so they might not be done.” “But what if I really need to see the B-17 that’s in there?” I asked politely. “Well,” he offered, “If it is closed, just find one of us in a black shirt and tell him you really need to be able to see it and they’ll probably take you in.” I could not have asked of a more compassionate and creative response.

We decided not to tempt fate and moved directly to hangar 79. And, yes, it was closed. So I found the nearest man wearing a black shirt and told him what his colleague had told me. “Well, we are closed,” he explained, “But tell me a little bit about why you need to go in and see her?” I shared how I was on a quest to see all the remaining B-17s in the country and if I could see Swamp Ghost, she would be either my 26th or 27th B-17 that I’ve seen and have been able to photograph. My travel companion added some bits of information, sharing that I was doing this for research for a book . . . . Well, that seemed to do the trick. He took us over to another colleague of his and told him my story. The guy just said, “I’ll take you over there after we talk about the B-29.” I was overjoyed. We got a personal tour of the aircraft that were in hangar 79, with a detailed story of Swamp Ghost, how she got her name and how she got to this museum. I took pictures to my heart’s content. We thanked him multiple times and he wished me happy writing! Now, I really do have to get to that book.

After that little thrill, we visited hangar 37 and the rest of the museum. Meeting back at the bus the driver was apologizing that hangar 79 was closed and we weren’t able to see The Swamp Ghost. My travel companion asked, “Should we tell him?” “No,” I answered, “There’s really no need to upset anyone.” I was just so grateful I had overheard the guys talking during lunch so I had enough of a tip to ask about it before finding out it was off limits. The kindness of the docents was commendable, and I truly appreciate someone sharing their excitement for history and its artifacts as much as I do. Thank you, guys.

Back on the bus, we took the short ride farther down Ford Island to visit the USS Missouri, where WWII was officially concluded. Surrender papers were signed on the deck of the Missouri on September 2, 1945. Two hours were required to take the self-walking tour through the giant battleship. It’s quite amazing and always humbling to walk the decks and passageways of a Naval vessel. Everyone should do it at least once, and imagine while doing so what it must have been like to live and work aboard during a conflict. There is gratitude in my heart each time I have the privilege of visiting one of our Naval giants.

We returned back to Pearl Harbor to retrieve our bags. (Well, I forgot to say we had to stow away any bags we were carrying with us because of security measures while at the memorial. Thankfully, I had made a split-secord decision this morning not to take my big camera – for what reason, I can’t even say. Yet, I knew in an instant I was grateful for the inclination when I learned we could only take with us into the memorial grounds and onto Ford Island, what we could fit in our pockets!)

On the way back into town we drove up into the National Cemetery, The Punchbowl, where many victims of that horrific day are laid to rest. I was looking forward to taking some pictures, but by that time in the day everyone was getting antsy (including me) and the driver didn’t want to stop or let anyone out for any reason. Hence, I have only drive-by shots of this very moving memorial to the many, many men and women who lost their lives in service to their country.

A tour through downtown Honolulu was the last attraction of the day. We were driven past government buildings; the Queen’s palace; and other historical sites particular to Hawaiian culture and history. Unfortunately, by this time in the day the skies had opened and the rains obstructed any opportunity for pictures of any kind. Still, the tour was interesting, but our brains were getting full and all of us were thinking about dinner and a little peace and quiet

Our drop off was the second one and we immediately walked across the street and down the block to Cheeseburgers Waikiki for a hot sandwich and some ice cream cake for dessert.

Our feet ached; our heads were full; our memories overflowed and our appreciation for our freedom and the sacrifice of others to preserve it, greatly enhanced. What a day it has been. One that will live in memory.

The itinerary today required a move from Lahaina on the island of Maui to Honolulu on the island of Oahu. And, If ever there was a day when I longed for the technology and expediency of the transporter from Star Trek, it was today. If I had millions of dollars to spend, I’d invest it in the research and brainpower to make such a handy device happen.

We arose early and did our requisite packing and cleaning up. But we still had a couple of hours to wait before our shuttle bus would come to pick us up. So, we sat out on the balcony, had our breakfast and listened to the surf crash against the sand beneath us as the sun rose one more time. We read our books and both got drowsy, wishing we had the time for a mid morning nap like we had yesterday. This traveling and sightseeing is hard work!

We checked out of our room and sat in the lobby to wait for the shuttle driver to arrive. And, we waited and waited. About the time we got worried enough to call the service, he pulled up. There were only two seats left in the van – but not together. He did get us to the airport, however, and that was a good thing.

Lining up for security was a nightmare. It was Sunday and everyone on Hawaii was traveling somewhere today. Our loooong line was diverted about half way back to split off to another check line. We scampered away following the barricades to keep us in our assigned place. And, unlike when we left from Seattle, today we were required to 1)take off our shoes; 2) take out any electronics larger than a cell phone and place them in a separate bin; take out any snacks; etc.; etc.; etc. I think the state of Hawaii is on high alert for any unauthorized snacks! I couldn’t believe it – but I complied. I pulled out my little Nook reader and my big Nikon camera with her zoom lens attached and put them in a separate bin.

As I leaned down to take off my shoes, a TSA person brought another huge pile of bins back and set them right in front of me. In an instant, the woman in front of me shifted and her elbow knocked my bin to the floor. It was the bin holding my little Nook and my big, beloved, EXPENSIVE Nikon camera and lens. I just about went into shock. Of course there was no time to stop and inspect anything – the masses were pushing us forward. I picked them up and put them back in the bin and kept being pushed forward. Once they had gone into the x-ray, I looked up, but  was so disoriented I ran into the side of the security arch I was supposed to walk through, setting off the alarm. And, I thought I was rattled before! I stood frozen, waiting for someone to tell me what to do. I hadn’t even actually gotten to the arch yet! The TSA guy at this point just said with exasperation, but absolutely no affect: “Step back and away. Step back and away.” Okay. Okay. I stepped back and away. The alarm stopped. Then he waved me into the walkway arch and I just kept walking as no alarm sounded. I retrieved my beloved camera that I hoped was still working as a camera and stuffed everything back into my carry-on bag before the people behind me trampled me. I was so rattled I had to stop and sit down to put my shoes back on. I was glad I had a traveling companion – but in situations like this, there really is no help to be had. This is the state of travel in the 21st century.

We found gate 11 and flight 251 going to Oahu and managed to squeeze into two of the last seats that were vacant. I was so wound up I had to take everything out of my bag and at least check to see if my camera was still working. Thankfully, it still was. But it was a heart-stopping experience, let me tell you.

I offered to walk back out of the waiting area to get my companion some coffee, as I needed some water. I stopped at the first kiosk I saw and asked if there was a Starbucks located within the security area. “No security!” she said. “No security! It’s right down there.” Not wanting to stop and clarify anything, I gingerly went out into the “main” part of the airport being careful no to go through any gates that might require me to go back through security again! What a trauma.

I did find the Starbucks and got the coffee and water I was after. Our flight was called and, like cattle going to slaughter, we all crowded at the gate and fought for a space while keeping within the barricades. Thankfully, the flight was only 40 minutes long. About the time we took off they offered juice or water, which was served from a little 3 oz cup with a foil cap. About the time we drank the 3 ounces of juice or water, the pilot called for the flight attendants to ready for landing. It really was that quick. But I’m sure the transporter would be altogether less hectic – and faster, too.

We found our bags and located the shuttle service that had our reservation to take us into Honolulu. If I wasn’t already stressed, this little scenario might have been comic. I was beginning to wonder if any one of them had a license to drive – they couldn’t do much else. We followed our bags closely, lest they end up at some other destination than we were going. Thankfully, an entirely different man, wearing a different colored Hawaiian shirt (meaning he was with a different company than those who had just handled the baggage) got into the van to drive us. He introduced himself as Johnny and he did seem like he knew where he was going. And, he did.

As we drove into Honolulu, a huge rainbow filled the sky. Well, that’s a sign; a promise, if you will, that this part of the trip will be just fine. My camera will work and we will be in the right place at the right time. Johnny dropped us off at the Luana Hotel in downtown (right next to what used to be old Ft. Derussy, but is now a beautiful city park and beach) and we checked in. The room is fine, but a far cry from the beautiful spot we had just left on Maui. This is city living now – and there is no way we could have afforded a spot on the beach here. I’m so glad we had four days in Lahaina first.

Not having had a bite since our little breakfast on the balcony back in Maui, we were famished. We quickly made the decision to go to the closest place we could find that was reasonable. That turned out to be a Tony Roma’s just a block away. If it had been any farther we might not have made it. The dinner was fine, although I sent my baked potato back because it wasn’t even hot – and I NEVER do that kind of thing. I guess all the jumble of the day just made me WANT a hot baked potato! And, the waiter kindly took it back and did bring me a hot one. Thank you!

As we ate, the restaurant filled with visitors from Japan, speaking Japanese all around us. The rain that was off in the distance creating the rainbow we had seen earlier caught up with us and came down in sheets outside. It was still raining when we left, but in Hawaii, I’m not sure anyone ever really gets wet. The heat almost dries up anything that gets wet at about the same rate as the rain falls.

We stopped at an ABC store for some yogurt and muffins for breakfast and then walked one block further to find the exact spot we will be picked up from tomorrow for our tour of Pearl Harbor. That begins at 6:45, so tomorrow is another early and long day. But, I am so looking forward to it.

Through all the gyrations of today, I couldn’t help but think that somehow we have lost a measure of civility we once had. Traveling is big business, but no one seems to think that a little kindness or compassion, much less simple directness and information, might be a small salve to see us through the necessary requirements of our times. Just because we have to suffer the demands of our challenging days, does not mean we should think it acceptable to be treated like cattle. Can’t we be screened and questioned in a civil manner as we do it? We are not suspects. We are travelers. Just a thought after a harrowing day that should not have been as harrowing as it was.

We will sleep well tonight, dreaming of transporters and travel in a kinder and gentler way. Maybe it can be less hectic and exhausting, too.

We awoke long before the sun and, with cameras in hand, walked over to the harbor slip where we were to meet the Ocean Discovery. The clerk was just opening the window to his kiosk at Slip #4 when we walked up. He looked as if he had slept as little as we had! But no matter. We were going in search of whales in Lahaina’s harbor and surrounding waters.

We were informed that the boat could hold 140 passengers and there were only 26 of us signed up for the tour, so there would be plenty of room for everyone to see all the whales. We went aboard when it was still dark, but tiny traces of light seemed to begin to emerge from around Haleakala. We could spot the Big Dipper; Orion; and Venus before the stars and planets gave way to the rising sun. It was beautiful. The clouds overhanging Lahaina’s mountains were turning pink and magenta before turning golden and back to soft grey in the full daylight.

One of the crew thought they spotted a spout before we were even out of the harbor; so the Captain slowed and stayed in the area hoping for another sighting. After about a half an hour, she decided to go on into open waters. The morning was stunning as the sun reflected off the ocean and the wind picked up in the open waters. Still, all of that at about 70 degrees – nothing at all like it is at home on the water, even in the dead of summer.

At our farthest point, a whale was sighted. I saw about three spouts, which easily could have all come from the same whale. Then we spotted the creature arching for a dive and the fluke peeked up and down again. It was thrilling. The Captain hung around that area for a good long time hoping to see the same whale surface again before we had to move back closer to the harbor and home.

Needless to say, it wasn’t the most exciting whale watch tour I’ve experienced, but it was thrilling to see the spouts and a fluke. The creatures are so massive and graceful they always amaze me. In addition, the day was beautiful and the chance to be on the water at sunrise was a grace all its own.

From the dock we walked back to Betty’s Cafe for breakfast and sat beach side – no windows or walls obstructing our views. It was 9 a.m. A full plate of bacon and eggs and ono benedict later, we both felt better and went back to our room to read and relax a little. Relaxing included a short nap and we woke to the sun brightly beating in our balcony doors. It was already after noon. We snapped ourselves awake and went out walking along the beach and into town.

The Saturday craft market was set up by the Banyan Tree and visitors of all manner and origin were shopping and enjoying the sights. We walked to a destination about a mile and a half away, Hilo Hattie’s, just to look at her selection of Hawaiian shirts. Someone had told us we must not miss the chance to see her products. It was a lovely store and although my travel partner didn’t find the shirt he was looking for – I found one I liked from the 70% off rack. That made it affordable and I couldn’t resist.

We also found an establishment that would ship Maui pineapples home – so we put in an order. It will be Christmas when we get back, after all.

Exhausted from all the walking and sightseeing we needed re-fueling. My travel partner had spotted “Sale Pepe” the other day and had planned to make that our dinner destination today. We finally found the place and saw on the sign that it didn’t open until 5:00. So we spent the twenty minutes of waiting in the nearby grocery store to pick up some bagels for breakfast in the morning.

We came back and were seated at Sale Pepe’s and enjoyed a luscious, if way too rich,  Italian dinner. We ate too much and were grateful for the mile and a half walk back to the hotel to burn off a fraction of some of our dinner calories. But, of course, along the way we had to stop and admire the sliver of a moon rising over the beach and neighboring island; the Banyan Tree adorned with Christmas lights; and enjoy a small taste of pineapple whipped ice. It was the perfect dessert; light and refreshing.

Walking in short sleeves and shorts in the dark of the evening on a tropical island certainly is incongruent with Christmas carols; but they were streaming out of every establishment, and even playing in the park by the Banyan Tree. We can hardly believe it is Christmas time, as the weather is more perfectly “summer” than any summer we ever have at home. We have to remind ourselves hourly that it is December.

Reflecting on this day we were grateful for a host of paradoxical graces: for darkness, yet also for light from the stars and planets; for warmth, even when it gets just a little too warm; for pre-dawn blackness that gives way to a golden sunrise, birthing a new day; for vessels on the waters and views of the islands from the vantage of ancient mariners; for seeing a tiny glimpse of a whale, even though they are enormous creatures; for resting, just because we could; for the brilliance of a rainbow that spanned the morning and lasted until the setting sun, sheltering the island; for eating more than we needed and being grateful for the privilege and opportunity to do so; and for seeing the “fingernail moon” setting over the beach and a neighboring island as the sun set on another day in paradise.

A little bit of a “lay in” (as the Brits would say) and cinnamon rolls from Makawao’s bakery out on our balcony overlooking Lahaina’s harbor began this marvelous day. We ate to the gentle sounds of the surf; reflected on the beauty of the morning; and watched as a couple did over an hour of yoga moves on the sand below us. Somehow their exhuberance didn’t exactly rub off on us. We continued to watch the surf and eat our rolls, content with ourselves; the world; and this particular moment in this particular place. (The cinnamon rolls were excellent, by the way).

Before the sun rose to its heights, I wanted to walk down Front Street without the crowds and without the heat that the afternoon brings. I took only my little purse and my phone camera and set out. I managed to walk the first mile in good time, and then the shops started opening about 9:30, drawing people out onto the streets. I walked on and went past the shopping district in search of a tiny beach I could see in the distance. I never actually found it, as all the drives toward it had posted signs declaring “Dead End.” Afraid that it might be a private beach, I gave up and turned around to go back toward the hotel through the shopping district.

I must admit, I did stop and do some shopping. I didn’t think my travel partner would mind. He was happily reading and drinking his coffee on the balcony and not at all enticed by the thought of exercise or shopping. As I went into shop after shop, I conversed with the shopkeepers and learned some very interesting things. First, there are no private beaches in Hawaii! What a novel idea. One person told me that little beach I had sighted was named “Baby Beach” and I just needed to keep walking until one of those dead end streets also had a sign for “Beach Access.” So, that will be on the agenda tomorrow.

At another shop I found the desk for making reservations for whale watching cruises and talked at length with the clerk there. She convinced me that a whale watching trip was a “must see” for Maui, especially this time of year. I must admit, she didn’t have to work very hard! I called my travel partner to confirm he would like to go with me and then bought tickets for tomorrow morning at sunrise. This woman assured me it would be the most spectacular time of day to see the whales as the whales are particularly active and the waters particularly calm at that time. I can’t wait until tomorrow.

As I returned to the hotel I began to scope out places for lunch as I knew my travel partner would be ready for a hot lunch after my over three hours of walking and shopping. So I stopped along the way and read menus and checked out who was eating what. As I passed the Piai’s Fishmarket on Front Street, I noticed a crowd of happy diners sitting at picnic tables in the shade enjoying their food. I read the menu and decided it would be just the place to take my travel partner. Part of our explorations must always include new and different things to try and places to see. This seemed to fit the bill perfectly.

Indeed, I was correct that lunch was the next item on the day’s activity list. And Piai’s Firshmarket was entirely agreeable with my travel partner. We ordered and went outside to claim the only empty seats available – one end of a picnic table. When our Cajun blackened Ahai and chicken Caesar salad came we were delighted with the quality and the preparation. It turned out to be a great pick and we enjoyed it immensely.

From Piai’s we walked across the street to Lahaina Harbor to track down the slip where we will be leaving from at 6:30 tomorrow morning. Easily found, we went into the old courthouse, located right on the harbor, and visited the museum there. It was filled with Maui and Hawaiian history and we learned some bits of historical information we did not know about the area.

Passing through the Banyan Tree Park we marveled at the tree that filled the entire park – and is only one organism. A banyan tree sends out air shoots from its limbs and sends them down to the ground to create new trees – still entirely connected to the original tree in the center of the grounds. It is most unusual, but very impressive. The tree was planted in 1873 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of missionaries coming to Hawaii and has continued to grow and expand ever since.

Arriving back at the hotel about 3:30, that ice cream we bought yesterday and forgot about seemed like it was just meant for this moment. We replenished our liquids and were refreshed by some ice cream before closing up our room and putting on some AC for the hottest part of the day. Rest is good, too. Everyone needs some moments of rest.

Dinner consisted of left-over pizza from last night – which was still delightfully delicious. We caught up on some national news before stepping out for an evening walk in the cooler hours of the evening. Since it was already dark, it was a quiet walk in the sand and surf under the stars. The only sounds were the lapping waves until the nightly drums and fire dancing from a luau taking place at an establishment down the beach started up. We slowly walked back along the beach to our gate access and tucked in for an early bedtime. We have to be at the boat at 5:45 tomorrow morning..

A previously planned tour from Seattle had us up before dawn at 6:00 to join our tour to Haleakala – the volcano on Maui. It felt like a short night, but we had slept the sleep of the dead and were perfectly ready to rise by 5:30. That time change traveling west helps, too.

We went to the lobby at our assigned time to see the Gray Line tour bus waiting by the door. We asked if this was the Haleakala tour and someone said “No. It’s the best of Maui tour.” Well, little did we know, they are the same thing. Not even our driver recognized this at first. (And when we returned to our room at the end of the day we had a message on the phone that our driver was probably making as we stood confused in the lobby, saying she could only wait two more minutes for us and then she would have to leave.) The mix up was quickly solved; we boarded the mini bus and took off as the sun was rising over Haleakala. It was a beautiful morning. There were 15 people in all on our tour and our driver was Hokeu (which means “Star.”). It made for a very pleasant day.

Hokeu expertly drove us on switchback roads to the top of the volcano, which took us to 9,240 feet above sea level. It was also above the clouds. The views were stunning on this pristine, clear day and we not only saw the crater of the volcano, but most of the island of Maui as well as the two highest peaks on the Big Island, to the east. I can’t describe what the crater looked like; only a picture can tell it all. To my mind it looked like something out of a science fiction movie – barren; rocky; red; with small pulverized rock and intermittent large boulders. Very strange, but oh, so intriguing. This volcano last erupted 500 years ago – yet it looks like it could have been yesterday. There were a minimal number of small bush-like plants with bright silvery-green, spiked leaves. The little plant, silversword, is only found on this volcano. It lives for about 90 years and only blooms once – right before it dies. Now, doesn’t that sound like something out of a science fiction movie? But, we saw it. Right here in Maui.

Coming down the mountain was filled with the same magnificent views, mountains and landscapes – only this time in reverse with sunshine from a little higher in the sky. All of it beautiful. Breathtakingly beautiful.

Once down the volcano, we stopped in the little town of Makawao and entered a small restaurant with “Casanova” proudly displayed on every server’s T shirt. I could only guess that was the name of this little Italian Cafe. It was a sheer delight to be treated to such delicious fare. The pasta was all made in-house and the sauces were individually prepared in the searing pan. It really was exquisite. And the shock of it all was . . . it was the least expensive food we have purchased on the island so far!!!

Following lunch we were given time to walk the little town and explore some native shops. Everything was beautiful, but what these visitors ended up finding was the local bakery. Of course we purchased items for breakfast tomorrow. And for dessert – a donut on a stick. I guess that’s very Hawaiian. When we told Hokeu we were surprised as we had never heard of such a treat, she laughed a hearty, deep, joyous laugh. But these donuts on a stick were no laughing matter – they were excellent!

Then Hokeu took us across the valley on Maui between the two volcanos and into the heart of the Iao Valley and the state park that is named for it. Now we saw what Hawaii must have looked like long before all the commercialization and expansion. It was like a PBS show of native lands untouched by growth or modernization. It was approaching late afternoon and the clouds were beginning to make the sun play hide and seek, but still the land was absolutely picturesque and iconic. The scenery was the exact opposite of the volcano: green, green foliage and colorful, unique local flowers. How can two such contrasting landscapes exist only miles from each other? Answer: Because they are both in Hawaii.

We were first to be dropped back at our hotel and we were happy to return to a little air conditioning and a soft chair. We saw so much on our tour that it took the remainder of my phone battery just to look over my pictures of the day.

As the sun set (at 5:45) we journeyed out onto the beach for some pictures. How many ways are there to say beautiful? I could never come up with enough variety to do this land justice. Let’s suffice it to say it is graced.

A small pizza at the cafe next to the hotel capped off the day. Who could ask for anything more?

In the middle of the winter, there is nothing like fleeing all that is familiar in favor of some kind of paradise. Way back in last March we made these plans, never even really being able to project what it might be like for us in December if we were to plan this trip.

But, here we are. In Paradise. On Maui. In Lahaina. And it’s warm and beautiful and oh, so lovely.

The day began at 5:00 a.m. after less than three hours sleep. Our son drove us to the airport (thank you J!) and after check in and security and an hour and a half wait; we boarded an Alaska airliner bound for Maui. Six hours later . . . we were here. We checked in at our hotel and stripped our long sleeves and long pants in favor of short sleeves and shorts and set out to find food. It had been a long day since that egg sandwich I packed for the airport.

But first, a stop at the concierge to make plans for next Monday on Oahu. We opted for the full tour of Pearl Harbor that will keep us entertained from 6:00 in the morning until 5:00 in the evening. And then we set out.

Without a car, we wanted to see the island up close and natural by walking where we wanted to go. The sun was bright; the breezes warm and inviting; the locals at every place  welcoming and accommodating. We took our maps and offered directions and went in search of Cheeseburgers in Paradise. It seemed like it was the farthest place away, but no matter, that’s where we wanted to go. My travel partner had been thinking of Cheeseburgers in Paradise since last March when we first made plans for today.

Just as we finished ordering, my travel partner went to change his sunglasses for his regular pair and exclaimed in shocked dismay, “Where’s my other hearing aid?” Somewhere in the day he had lost one and was somewhat frantic as to what he was going to be able to do to replace it. We traced our way backwards through the afternoon – just in our minds as our cheeseburgers were already ordered and we were SO hungry! Together we determined he must have lost it when he changed into his sunglasses as we stepped outside the front of the hotel. So, he called the hotel and patiently explained his predicament. Before he could conclude his story and ask if someone might be able to go outside and look . . . he exclaimed “You have it! Oh, thank you so much. Now we’ll really be able to enjoy our cheeseburgers in Paradise.” Some kind person had found the hearing aid and turned it into the front desk. What a miracle. The clerk admitted that he almost took it and threw it away because he didn’t recognize what it was – the privilege of the young. His supervisor happened to be near and identified the earpiece, so it was on the desk when we made the call to the hotel asking for help. Miracles do happen.

It was a regular celebration when our cheeseburgers arrived. The restaurant is upstairs, and the dinning room is hanging out over the surf and the beach. The hamburgers were good; but the view was even better. Our dinner nourished both the body and the soul. A short stop at a grocery store on the way back to the hotel for provisions for breakfast and we leisurely walked the mile back to our abode for the next four days.

The night life was just coming out of the shadows, but that’s not why we came, so we gladly tucked ourselves in for the evening in anticipation of a 6:00 start to our tour for tomorrow.

The most lovely thing of all; the most lovely moments of this day – is looking forward to falling asleep to the music of the crashing surf just below our bedroom window. The natural sounds of the sea are the sounds of grace crashing into our world. We will sleep well tonight.