In the middle of the winter, there is nothing like fleeing all that is familiar in favor of some kind of paradise. Way back in last March we made these plans, never even really being able to project what it might be like for us in December if we were to plan this trip.

But, here we are. In Paradise. On Maui. In Lahaina. And it’s warm and beautiful and oh, so lovely.

The day began at 5:00 a.m. after less than three hours sleep. Our son drove us to the airport (thank you J!) and after check in and security and an hour and a half wait; we boarded an Alaska airliner bound for Maui. Six hours later . . . we were here. We checked in at our hotel and stripped our long sleeves and long pants in favor of short sleeves and shorts and set out to find food. It had been a long day since that egg sandwich I packed for the airport.

But first, a stop at the concierge to make plans for next Monday on Oahu. We opted for the full tour of Pearl Harbor that will keep us entertained from 6:00 in the morning until 5:00 in the evening. And then we set out.

Without a car, we wanted to see the island up close and natural by walking where we wanted to go. The sun was bright; the breezes warm and inviting; the locals at every place  welcoming and accommodating. We took our maps and offered directions and went in search of Cheeseburgers in Paradise. It seemed like it was the farthest place away, but no matter, that’s where we wanted to go. My travel partner had been thinking of Cheeseburgers in Paradise since last March when we first made plans for today.

Just as we finished ordering, my travel partner went to change his sunglasses for his regular pair and exclaimed in shocked dismay, “Where’s my other hearing aid?” Somewhere in the day he had lost one and was somewhat frantic as to what he was going to be able to do to replace it. We traced our way backwards through the afternoon – just in our minds as our cheeseburgers were already ordered and we were SO hungry! Together we determined he must have lost it when he changed into his sunglasses as we stepped outside the front of the hotel. So, he called the hotel and patiently explained his predicament. Before he could conclude his story and ask if someone might be able to go outside and look . . . he exclaimed “You have it! Oh, thank you so much. Now we’ll really be able to enjoy our cheeseburgers in Paradise.” Some kind person had found the hearing aid and turned it into the front desk. What a miracle. The clerk admitted that he almost took it and threw it away because he didn’t recognize what it was – the privilege of the young. His supervisor happened to be near and identified the earpiece, so it was on the desk when we made the call to the hotel asking for help. Miracles do happen.

It was a regular celebration when our cheeseburgers arrived. The restaurant is upstairs, and the dinning room is hanging out over the surf and the beach. The hamburgers were good; but the view was even better. Our dinner nourished both the body and the soul. A short stop at a grocery store on the way back to the hotel for provisions for breakfast and we leisurely walked the mile back to our abode for the next four days.

The night life was just coming out of the shadows, but that’s not why we came, so we gladly tucked ourselves in for the evening in anticipation of a 6:00 start to our tour for tomorrow.

The most lovely thing of all; the most lovely moments of this day – is looking forward to falling asleep to the music of the crashing surf just below our bedroom window. The natural sounds of the sea are the sounds of grace crashing into our world. We will sleep well tonight.

October 31, 2018

Another foggy start to the day. Gray and various shades of gray filled the color palette. We ate a quick breakfast and cleaned up our little abode in preparation for leaving. We wanted to catch the 1:30 ferry back to the mainland. While we knew we had lots of time, there is something in me that becomes anxious when I think I might miss something so important as the ferry back home. We wanted to be in the ferry line early, so as not to be left on the Island for lack of room. It’s always “first come, first served” in the ferry system.

So, after checking out, we found our way to Southsound and the ferry holding area. We were the first car to arrive! So, in between watching the locals come for their morning paper or coffee at the General Store beside the dock, we read our books and waited. To stretch our legs, we took a walk up the hill and found a little trinket shop and went in just to warm up. The lady at the counter was delighted to see us and we might have missed the ferry if we had stayed to listen to all her stories! I did find a pin and patch for my collections and she was happy to go through her till so she could help me add some National Parks Quarters to that collection as well.

The ferry arrived – right on time – and we were the first car on. As we parked, front and center, we anticipated a wonderful view of the sail home. We sailed in and out of rain; stopped at Saw and Lopez Islands; and took some time to explore the ferry. It was the Tokitae, one of the relatively new ferries to join the state fleet. Enjoying the views from the toe of the ferry was exciting but before we knew it, we were docking at Anacortes and our island adventure had come to an end.

We took I-5 to Quilceda and stopped at the Olive Garden for a much anticipated hot meal. It was the perfect recipe to warm us up and we enjoyed it hugely. For exercise, we walked around the mall once and returned to the car for the remainder of the drive home.

Arriving by 7:00 pm, we were just in time for Trick-or-Treaters. The quiet of the islands is delightful, but there is nothing like home and the amenities of comfort that are familiar – our own bed; our own hot water and shower; our own TV and internet; our own neighbors and their kids. There is grace and beauty here, too. We must not forget that.

A slow start, a foggy morning, and camping biscuits and gravy occupied the entire morning. By noon we were ready to go out and explore. Our destination was beauty, so we ambled for as far as the road took us. On our return to the “main” road, we turned north toward Orcas Island Pottery, and hoped they might be open even though it is October and there are few visitors to the Island. Fortunately, the potters live at the site and are there year round to welcome visitors to their creative industry.

The place seemed like a fairy village with sheds and gardens and sculptures of every kind and description. There was even a tree house, which I forgot to explore since the beautiful pottery on every table and in every shed was consuming all my attentions. After much admiring and lots of time, we each selected a piece of pottery to take home with us, then pulled ourselves away from this delightful business.

We drove back across the Island to Eastsound where my driver needed to stop for some coffee. Surprisingly, the little coffee shop had internet service, and we spent a good amount of time there doing some emails and catching up on the news of the past two days. As my driver continued to sip his coffee, I went out into the streets and explored the crossroads and the tiny shops. Again, there was not much open, but I did visit a couple of galleries that had lovely items. I walked to the historic Episcopal church, located right on the water and walked their labyrinth. The sun peeked out and it was an altogether stunning place to stop and pray.

The little town began closing up shop at 4:00 and my driver called saying he had been chased out of the coffee shop. We found each other (which wasn’t difficult!) and opted for a hot meal at the local Mexican restaurant near where we had parked the car. It was open! So, inside we went. Needless to say, I don’t think there are many Mexicans on Orcas Island . . . but the food was hot and filling.

Returning to our little cabin, we read and knitted and spent the evening like pioneers. It’s amazing how far away we have come from quiet and simple pleasures. It was a lovely evening. I did go out and walked down to Deer Harbor in the post-twilight to see if I could capture some of the beauty. There is a quiet, peaceful, calm to this place; some might call it grace.

How many times have we said we wanted to explore the landscapes close to home? And how many times have we done it? Not Many. But today we changed that and set out to explore the wonder and beauty of the San Juan Islands. Particularly, Orcas Island, located only about 80 miles from home and an hour’s ferry ride away.

Leaving home early on a Monday morning was a challenge. But we managed to do it! We were in the car by 8:30 and stopped for gas at the 7/11  before hitting the road.

As we drove north out of town the thick clouds parted and we could see puffy clouds and spots of blue sky. Eventually the sun joined us in the Skagit Valley and the scenery was lovely. We arrived at the ferry dock in Anacortes at 10:30, purchased our ticket for $55 for car and one passenger and awaited our sailing at noon. Cars lined up behind us.

The wait necessitated a morning bagel accompaniment. It helped the time pass faster and kept the stomach from growling. By 11:45 the cars were loading on the ferry and at noon sharp we were sailing. The fog was whipping over the waters and among the islands and it was beautiful. The winds were almost non-existent, which made for a very smooth ride. At times the clouds separated and blue skies peeked through.

At 1:10 we were docking at Orcas Island and made our way off the ferry . The island is the largest of the San Juan Islands, but still only takes less than an hour to drive from tip to tip. We went exploring. Our first stop was all the way to Olga and an artist’s co-op. The items were beautiful and far too costly to take one home, but they were lovely to look at. The island pace seemed slower, the pastoral fields calming, and the abundant deer enchanting. The sun made multiple appearances throughout the afternoon.

We drove into Moran State Park and went up Mount Constitution, all 2398 feet of elevation. Then we climbed the stone tower at the top which allowed 53 additional feet of height and a 360 degree view. Gazing into the thick fog it was hard to believe there was anything to see. But, like magic, while we waited and chatted with fellow visitors, the fog danced and eddied, revealing islands and cities across the waters of the Strait. I only wish we could have seen Mount Baker and the Cascade Range, which were certainly there and would have been visible on a clearer day. Still, what we could see was magnificent; a testament to the Wonder of Creation.

Due to the chilly nature of the fog and the lower temps at higher altitudes, we descended long before we were full of the stunning views. Stopping along the way down, we found the sun and views to the South to take the breath away.

Nearing 4:00, we were very glad we opted for those bagels at the ferry dock in Anacortes. Now it was certainly time for dinner. Just when we realized that leaving the city behind from time to time is a blessed thing, we actually longed for the city’s amenities while searching for some dinner. Most of the island establishments are closed for the season. We actually went to four different places before we found one that was open and ready to serve us. The White Horse Pub fit the bill – by this point in time we were no longer picky. Yet, it was surprisingly good. It was an Irish Pub with good Pub fare and we filled ourselves with steamy, hot corn chowder; Shepherd’s Pie; and chicken pot pie. The meals not only took care of our hunger, but warmed us up considerably. It was comfort food in the best sense of the word – comfort for the body and the soul. Not only that, but the view of the water was breathtaking – right from our table!

Filled and satisfied, we went on to our timeshare cabin in Deer Harbor, a half an island away. The sun was setting and the clouds turned pink and golden. We checked in, turned up the heat and began to unpack and unwind. The evening was spent in relaxation – reading, writing, and knitting. There is no phone service nor internet; but there is a fireplace. Perfect for such an evening.

Yes, we did return home – yesterday (Oct 24th) – but we were so tired we couldn’t think about recording the event here.

We packed out of our motel yesterday morning and had planned to do some sightseeing through the Yakima Valley, but after a night of fitful sleep because of information we learned during the conference, we just stopped at a few places and took to the mountains. I wanted to stop at a Dollar Tree and the Target in the Valley and we did that on our way out of town.

The valley floor was a harvest sight; brown and somehow beautiful seen from the hills before we dropped into the valley. The high hills approaching the mountains were covered with windmills in the distance, making an impressive sight. We crossed the Yakima River and saw most of the foliage turning color and dropping from the trees. It is definitely Fall.

The coolness and misting clouds of the mountains were a welcome sight. Beauty was all around us, despite the absence of sunshine. The golden leaves provided the brilliance against the majestic evergreens. Once over the summit, we stopped in North Bend, a favorite spot to stop for a short rest for my driver and a short walk around the outlet mall for me. And then we continued on.

The familiarity of the city was a relief and we stopped once in town for a late lunch. Unfortunately, we tried a new spot in our neighborhood that happened to be about to close for the day. It was actually a breakfast place – which we didn’t know – and consequently, we had a second breakfast instead of dinner. It was less than satisfying, but of course, we ate it.

Unpacking and sorting out things occupied the evening and when I sat down to do some email, I began to have all kinds of computer problems. Nothing was working correctly! Suddenly I knew it was because I needed to go to bed – and so I did.

I certainly must have needed to do that as I woke up this morning after 10 and a half hours of sleep (according to my fitbit.)

Today, there was rain, rain and more rain in Seattle. But the trees here are beautiful, too. And, we are in the warmth and comfort of our own home.  Not only that, I had a good night’s sleep last night. All is good.

Watching the sunrise out the motel window began the day. It is always striking to me how magnificent the sun can look upon rising. I’m usually never awake at that hour, so it surprises me every time I see it. (Which has not been very many times, I grant you!)

Our conference on health care and living with loved ones who suffer from memory loss began at 9:00 with a gathering of about 200 people from around the state. The presenters were very informative and we made some connections with others who have lived with such challenges. The final presenter was a doctor from University of Washington who was extremely helpful in dispelling myths and offering as much concrete hope and information he could offer.

We were released at 4:00 to go about our day thinking of all we had heard, shared and learned. There is much to ponder and review as we carry the information back home with us. How can we best communicate? How do we share what we’ve learned? How can we be the best support for those who bear the weight of such loss? It’s a new learning curve, and like any curve or incline, there is practice and endurance that must come with time.

We drove over to the local Costco to fill little Dixie’s belly with gas so she could get us back home tomorrow. In the process, we couldn’t resist a walk through the warehouse to explore what Yakimans may be able to purchase at their Costco.

Sadly, I have no more pictures to share since we sat inside all day. But, we did go on to find a Dickie’s BBQ for a quick sandwich for dinner before returning to the motel. I’m sure we will be early to bed tonight to make up for our early rising this morning.

There is much to be grateful for in the day – the organization that presented the conference; the expert presenters; the attendees who shared some of their personal stories; and the assurance that none of us are alone on this very singular, yet astoundingly familiar, journey.

When the temps begin to drop and the days grow shorter, not to mention the arrival of a thick fog from an inversion layer, the body yearns to be somewhere else. Anywhere else! So it must be time to skip town.

Actually, it’s not all that simple. We have signed up to attend a conference in Yakima tomorrow, so skipping town just came with it. The added bonus is that on the way to Yakima, we drove out of the fog, into the full fall sunshine and into warmer temperatures. The only thing we couldn’t escape was the shorter days.

The conference is for caregivers and family members who are dealing with someone with dementia. We thought it would be interesting to educate ourselves on some of the intricacies of the disease. Living with it may be hard, but not near so difficult as having no information at all about it.

So, we set out this morning at the crack of noon to hit the road. We made one minor stop to pick up some papers from AAA (concerning a future trip) on the way out of town. We marveled at the thick fog and the reduced visibility. It was as if we were traveling in the clouds. Yet not long after, we began to see signs of struggling sunshine as we rose in elevation through the Cascade Mountains. As we reached the summit, the car thermometer read 10 degrees warmer and the sun was shinning boldly. The golden leaves of the forest deciduous trees were beautifully stunning.

We made our usual stop at the Indian John Hill rest stop and then passed through the desert foothills before descending into the Yakima Valley. A quick check in at our motel, and we set out in pursuit of harvest fruits and vegetables.

Washington Fruit Place at Barrett Orchards accommodated us nicely. We purchased a box of Mutsu apples as well as a distinctive mug that reminded us to “Write your own story.” The place was attractively decorated with hay and pumpkins, fruits and jellies, harvest corn and scarecrows. It was a country place in every sense of the word. We enjoyed our visit with the staff and asked them for a recommendation for the best Mexican restaurant in town. There was no hesitation and we took their directions to Xochimilco’s, just eight minutes away.

The interior was dark, but it didn’t keep the staff from shinning. My driver ordered an exotic dish the waitress recommended and I leaned more toward familiar fare. Both were excellent! Yet, at one point before we were finished, my driver bolted from his chair and disappeared. He came back flushed and apologetic. Unbeknownst to me, he had experimented with the jalapeno pepper and burned his lips. While wiping his lips with his napkin, his eyes began to water and he used the napkin to wipe his eye. Unfortunately, that was a big mistake and he ran to the restroom to wash out his eye.

Needless to say, not only was the dinner delicious, it was also eventful. Consequently, only a trip to Baskin Robbins could put the fire out and fortunately there was one only a few minutes away.

So begins our little skipping town experience. There’s so much to remember already, not the least of which was the climate and superb food.

For our final day of adventure, we were up at 7:00 to enjoy our yogurt in the room and pack all our belongings.  Once the car was packed, we headed directly for Dungeness Spit. A refreshing walk through tall forest trees led us down the bluff to the sandy shores of the spit – a narrow bar of sand that winds 11 miles out into the Strait of Juan de Fuca. It’s only yards wide, but beautiful on both sides. The morning was lovely; sunny skies; not too hot yet; no wind; few visitors; deep blue waters; gentle waves and cooling, soft breezes. A tiny bit of haze still surrounded the shores of B.C. in the distance, but the fog from the previous days was totally gone.

Taking my trusty Makah walking stick, I walked out along the spit for one and a half miles before turning back to the trail up the bluff. There is something so primal about the beach for me. The mountains may have been calling John Muir, and I can hear that, too, but it is the beach that calls to me and I must go! The sound of the waves, the patterns of the sand and rocks; the wildness of the landscape all lure me to the center and the sacred. I could stay on the beach forever.

But, there is a time to go. We walked back up through the forest and found the car again. Next stop: a local lavender farm where I picked some fragrant lavender that is so prevalent in this area. The farm was stunningly beautiful with all their flowers blooming and being harvested. I cut a handful to take back with me and the soothing aroma filled the car for our ride home.

One last pass through the little community of Sequim and we decided to stop for a late lunch at the Oak Table Cafe again, only for lunch this time. It was superb. My driver ordered the apple pancake he didn’t get yesterday for breakfast and I had the best bacon cheeseburger I think I’ve ever had.

Before getting back in the car for the ride home, we strolled through town and visited some of the little shops. My driver found some coffee and I enjoyed the many lavender shops with their lavender products for sale. As the day continued to heat up, we decided to move on. One last stop at the local Costco for a few groceries to have upon arriving home and we were set to go. But, wait, there’s more. Passing by Home Depot we stopped to purchase two lavender plants for our front yard. Why not get them from their home territory?

The ferry wait at Kingston was over an hour and the sun beating on the parking lot roasted the cars and everyone in them! The views were beautiful, though. We waited. What else could we do?  We got on the 5:30 ferry and I stood out on the front of the car deck to take advantage of the natural air conditioning. It was amazingly exhilarating. I can’t tell you how many times we’ve been on a ferry where we could hardly get out of the car without freezing. This was quite a change from those experiences.

There was haze in the air, obstructing any views of Mt. Rainier, but the time on the water was still a joy. We docked at 6:15 and made our way through the evening traffic to arrive home. We were completely spent, but in a good and satisfying way. The days away, the hikes, the views, the food, and each location seemed made to order just for us. How could it be anything but grace?

After our full day yesterday we began this morning slowly and took ourselves out to breakfast at the Oak Table Cafe in Sequim. It was exceptional and we enjoyed it immensely. A short walk through town after breakfast preceded our drive up to Hurricane Ridge. Once again, the day was bright and beautiful and this time we escaped to the mountain heights above Sequim and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Our destination was only one hour away, but it seemed longer because of road work and delays along the route to the Ridge Visitor Center.

As we advanced in elevation we began to see mountain flowers among the green brilliance of the trees as thick as grass. At the top (5,242 feet!) we visited the Visitor Center, watched the informative movie about features in the park and made our decision as to where we would like to hike. I wanted to see the meadow and the wild flowers, but it seems we were too late. Since the last two weeks have been both sunny and hot, without a hint of moisture, only remnants of wild flowers remained. That fact, however, did little to mar the beauty of the spot.

We hiked the Big Meadow trail; the Cirque Rim trail; and the High Ridge Loop. The last trail was a bit of a challenge for these visitors who both are a bit adverse to heights. Once again, our trusty Makah walking sticks were welcome companions and may have actually saved our lives. I had to curtail my photo pursuits because if I didn’t I’d still be up on one of the trails. It was more than beautiful – vistas where we could see in every direction – majestic peaks; snow and glaciers; trees and valleys, as well as butterflies, bees and many deer. At one point we could see Victoria B.C. across the Strait of Juan de Fuca, as well as some of the San Juan Islands. To the South we could see the snow capped line of peaks that make up the Olympic Mountain Range with all their corresponding valleys and ridges. We were breathless – not only from the demanding inclines of our hikes, but from the spectacular views. The air was clear; skies blue; snow white; trees emerald green; and fellow hikers friendly and companionable. We felt we were at the top of the world.

To send us on our way, a local deer, who had been in the meadow, walked into the parking lot to wish us well. We were so grateful he was willing to share his beautiful home with us for the day.

We came down the mountain and found ourselves famished. Well, it was 5:00. We pulled off the road to select a dinner destination only to realize we were parked right outside one of the areas “Best Restaurants.” So, we went into Tendy’s Garden Chinese Restaurant and were not disappointed. Chicken chow mein and Mu Shu Pork filled us with fresh and tasty flavors as it nourished and delighted us. What a happy occurrence. Grace had guided us to this spot after treating us to the wonders of nature on the mountains.

An after dinner walk through Sequim’s brand new air conditioned Michael’s store completed the day. What a happy, restful, renewing, spontaneous getaway this has been and all of it only 40 miles from home.

Why don’t we do this more often?

It is hard to imagine how we could have had a more beautiful day than yesterday, but if there was one to be had, this was it.

After a quick yogurt in our room, we left early and were on the road by 8:30. But, we did have to stop for some coffee for my driver. Not a problem. The plan was to go to the Hoh Rain Forest in the Olympic National Park, then out to Cape Flattery, the most Northern and Western point in the contiguous United States; returning to Sequim by dinner time.

Last evening’s marine fog still lay over the water like a fluffy, billowy quilt that was being pushed slowly back by the increasing heat of the mid-morning sun. The entire drive was one into extreme wilderness on a winding, two-lane road with little other traffic. About half way to our turn off to the Hoh, we decided to bypass it in favor of going straight to Cape Flattery first, returning past Forks and then on to the Hoh.

Along the drive, we marveled at the extreme blue of the strait waters – usually only ever seen as grey. The skies were just as blue and clear above the fog layer that was dissipating. In the distance we saw the peaks from Vancouver Island, B.C. and along the way, a bald eagle sunning himself on a coastal rock. As we pulled the car to the shoulder so I could snap a picture, he decided he didn’t necessarily want any company and moved stealthily behind the big rock.

We arrived in Neah Bay on the Makah Reservation about 12:30, badly in need of a comfort stop. The beautiful Makah Museum offered us not only comfort, but a lovely tribute to the culture of the people who first inhabited these shores. I especially enjoyed the exquisite detail of the dioramas of their early settlements. Unfortunately, they do not allow photography. You must go and see it for yourself. I highly recommend it.

Before we had arrived at the museum, because we were so badly in need of comfort, we had all but decided to skip the trip to Cape Flattery and go on to the Hoh without seeing the edge of the world at the Cape. But, once we felt better and were nourished by the wonderful information of the museum exhibits, we were in a much better mood to be influenced by the cheerful docent at the museum desk.  She encouraged us to make the hike out to the Cape; it was only a mile; it was only a 200 foot change in elevation; it would only take about 15 minutes down and 20 minutes back up; it was a well groomed trail with resting benches and boardwalks; and the day was relatively clear so views should be abundant. Well, yes, how could we refuse? We changed our plans again and decided to go for the hike out to Cape Flattery as originally planned.

And we are so glad we did. We stopped at the trail head and picked up a hefty walking stick adorned with beads and feathers and set out down the trail. The tall quiet majestic trees comforted us; silence enveloped us; coolness and fog swirled around us; and we picked our way carefully farther and farther into the dense forest. The walking stick turned out to be an essential aid and without it I may never have made it to the end of the trail, much less made the return trip! When we reached the Cape, we could hear the rush of the waves beneath us; see the fog dancing around the rocks before us; and the expanse of the Pacific Ocean beyond us, and we stopped in stunned appreciation. Fellow hikers from all over the world who were basking in the beauty of the spot were respectful, yet genial and friendly, sharing amazement and stories. This vista; this beauty; this trek through the forest had reminded us we are all family and we shared our joy.

Returning to the car after the hike back up, I knew I would not be able to part with the trusty hiking stick I had picked up at the trail head. Gratefully, we found a box where donations were accepted if we wanted to take our sticks with us. Well, we both certainly did. They will remain mementos of our hike to the “end of the world.” Well, no, not the end of the world. As the curator at the museum had told us, the Makah call it “The beginning of the world.” These sticks will be mementos of our hike to “The beginning of the world.” What a turn of perspective!

Stopping back in Neah Bay, we had hoped to find a deli sandwich at Washburn’s General Store, however, there were none to be had. So, we decided to move on to Forks, a somewhat larger community, to find some lunch. But, before we left I couldn’t help but ask if I could take a picture of an artist refurbishing the totem pole outside the store. He graciously granted permission and I have this lovely memory, too.

Getting back in the car, we survived on peanuts and dried fruit while deciding to skip the Hoh Rain Forest entirely; skip Forks; and take the more scenic route along the shores of Lake Crescent. We kept looking ahead on the phone to see if we could find a lunch spot – well, by now an early dinner spot – but the wireless service was so spotty it was impossible. So, we did it the old fashioned way. When we saw the large sign that said “Hungry Bear Cafe” we pulled right in. We felt as hungry as bears, that was for sure.  The food was nothing exceptional, but it was nourishing and hot and much better than nothing. We were grateful.

Now, on to drive the south shore of the lake while the sun was setting. We found our way back to our room in Sequim by 7:30 – eleven hours from when we had left – and settled in with the lovely memories of our very eventful and energizing day.

Grace is everywhere, and can not only be seen and felt, but also touched, smelled, tasted, and heard. This day was a testament to grace in all its forms. Hard to imagine anything more beautiful.